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A dish prepared at Anatoly Komm's Varvary restaurant in Moscow - Source: Supplied
Anatoly Komm in the kitchen of his Varvary restaurant in Moscow - Source: Supplied
The City Space Bar towers 34 floors over Moscow - Source: Supplied
Some of Russia's finest culinary professionals are challenging
traditional Russian cuisine and its perception both at home and
around the world. Krissy Moreau spoke to two of them.
Dubbed the pioneer of the Russian culinary revolution, I first met
Anatoly Komm standing in the foyer of his latest restaurant, one
hand on hip, the other in the air as if welcoming me into the
presence of a master. I was soon aware that this Muscovite isn't
just any chef, and his restaurant recently named in the world's top
50 serves cuisine that's more spectacle than sustenance.
Moving through the eloquently named Varvary (Russian for Barbarians), the swish of lace and luxuriant carpet screams opulence, as brilliantly lit yellow and orange skirting trims the balcony looking down over the city of Moscow. Seated at one of only 25 table settings of silver and crystal of a quality one would think was reserved only for the Tsars, Mr Komm is eager for his gastronomic show to get underway.
"Food is an artistic instrument for a contemporary Chef. It helps Chef to show, to reflect his philosophy and inner life"
Without further ado, let the show begin.
A sensory feast takes place as an 11-course masterpiece is played out in a manner similar to watching a ballet. A liquid nitrogen sour cream mix poured over Kamchatka crab dumplings steams its way into the nasal passage and settles to replicate the snow falling to the ground outside. A syringe injects a warm sour cream sauce into a poached egg on a bed of caviar, asparagus and white truffles. A traditional soviet cake potato with truffle and apple sauce is reminiscent of what one might think the Romanovs indulged in. Every dish is poured, shaken, sizzled or moulded to perfection, making colours and ingredients around the plate.
Mr Komm is at home in Varvary's extravagance and proud of his pioneering, but he's also aware of the huge responsibility of bringing Russia's cuisine into the 21st century.
"A lot of young chefs are now following me and are inspired by my example and I have no right to let them down. Being an "ice-breaker" you must be sure that you make a fairway which the others will be able to go along with".
With all ingredients made in the territory of the Russian Federation, the Varvary concept is based on old soviet cuisine.
"The traditions of food which our grandparents and parents were brought up on. My cuisine is a deep knowledge of classic gastronomy with a gentle touch of vanguard techniques".
But he admits getting to this point and pushing beyond is challenging.
"Russia has been a closed country for a very long time. There were no tourists here. But we've taken a long stride forward for the last 20 years."
It's a sentiment shared at City Space Bar, towering 34 floors over Moscow at the Swissotel Krasnye Holmy. At first glance, the bar which has been classed among the best in the world seems hidden behind the façade of the Swissotel lobby. But wander a little further and an express elevator shuttles past the rooms, straight to the bar's stylish entrance. Circulating around the couches, City Space is the epitome of style and trend. Clean lines of white leather and glass offset the breath taking 360 degree views of Moscow, while the menu boasts of internationally renowned mixologists whose creations will make your mouth water.
On recommendation of bar manager Bek Narzi, the cocktail of choice is "The White Russky", a creation based on the authentic recipe of the classic White Russian. Vodka stirred with home made Rye bread, served in a cocktail glass and layered with vanilla cream, "a truly delightful combination of authentically Russian flavours in a glass". The result is sweet and potent, a strong stiff drink I easily associate with the image of Mother Russia.
It's the careful blend of image, mixology and modus operandi that has City Space boasting of international acclaim. The key ingredient though is a strong customer focus and one the bar manager hopes others in the industry will replicate to keep up with international demand,"& serving guests not cocktails, whereas other bars not only in Russia serve cocktails by forgetting about presence of guests."
He says keeping Russia on the world stage means thinking ahead and constantly raising expectations.
"The bar scene in Russia reminds me of London's bar scene in the late 90's& it's rapidly growing, clubs are slowly dying and re-launching themselves into bars".
"Russia is huge and has great potential in upcoming years to
expand into other cities," a trend it's hoped will secure Russia's
permanent place on the culinary map.
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