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Related Links 2004: Danielle Cormack in Syria & Jordon

Day one

Finally arrived after 360 hours in the air, well 36 but it feels like such a long way.  On the road into Amman, the capital of Jordan, we passed all these people picnicking on the side of the road.  Family after family.  It would be like people eating on the median strip of the Southern Motorway.  My driver managed to explain that this is like a day out for the families, it is their holy day and this is their way of getting together to do something special. 

Day two

My hotel is next door to a big mosque.  Religion doesnt recognize jet lag so the calling to prayer went off as usual at about 5am, maybe earlier.  It is a lovely sound just a bit of a shock.  A bit later, ventured into town.  Met a hilarious guide who knew everything about New Zealand.  Reeled off all these place names like Hamilton and Dunedin.  We ended up having a Shakespearean Duel in an old amphitheatre.. very cool.

Day Three

Last day in town before heading to the desert.  Ended up getting caught up in a dodgy taxi that got stopped by the police.  I think the tourist industry is quite regulated and he was not paying the right man the right amount of money so things did not go too well for him big fine apparently.  Met some bolshy young postcard sellers some were nearly the same age as my son I just hope they go to school.  They said they did but earning money for the family has such mana here that they probably dont go as much as they should.

Day Four

Nearly ran out of petrol on the road to Wadi Rum.  Incredible desert.  They filmed Laurence of Arabia here and I have felt like I have been on a film set all day.  It is just so impressive.  My guide, Zedan, is a one-man circus.  He has been singing in the truck and is still singing while roasting coffee beans on the fire for a fresh brew.

Day Five

Great meal last night.  The Bedouin version of a hangi.  They dig a 44-gallon drum into the sand, light a fire at the bottom and then stack food in big wire grates in on top of the embers.  They throw a lid on it and bury it with sand.  Delicious.  Also a great nights sleep no calling to prayer in the desert.

Day Six

Petra today the ancient city carved out of stone. It is just so remarkable hard to put into words.  The Treasury, the Monestary these immense buildings carved with only the most basic tools.  Met a woman who is married to a Kiwi running one of the stalls.  We are everywhere.

Day Seven

Had to go back to Petra for another look.  It is so huge you could easily spend three whole days looking around here.  Went to the Bedouin Village and met the local Sheik he asked me to be his 7th wife I think.  The local Bedouins used to live in Petras caves but were moved out to clean it up for the tourists.  The government built them houses but it doesnt seem like they are 100% happy here they didnt have a choice.  Very friendly people& really connected with Mirriam, the current wife of the sheik who is about to give birth to her 9th child.

Day eight

On the road back to Amman.  Quick stop and then it is on towards the boarder with Syria.

Day Nine

Stayed at a weird place called Dana.  The place is deserted.  Everyone moved out and abandoned thier homes because their was no work.  Very strange feel to it.  The locals are trying to turn it into a tourist retreat.  Good luck.

Day Ten

Dead Sea yay!  I have always wanted to do this.  Water very salty like a tin of anchovies all in one hit but you are so buoyant.  I put on some mud and it made my skin feel very soft.  You can feel the salts and minerals in the water but make sure you wash it all off& it gets super itchy if you dont and almost burns your skin.

Day Eleven

Crossed into Syria so am in the axis of evil.  I enjoyed Jordan but this is even crazier.  The people are more friendly and have a great sense of humour.  Went down to the main market in Damascus and got given so many cups of coffee and olives and other drinks and food.  They almost kill you with kindness& not at all what I expected.

Day Twelve

Got to see inside my first Mosque.  Had to wear a robe to cover me, head to foot felt a bit like a character out of Star Wars but that is how women have to be dressed to go in.  It was so different to our churches.  People hang out here, talk, eat, have political rallies& it is so much more alive than where we worship.

Day Thirteen

Visited a real live castle, Crac de Chevillier.  Had tunnels and dungeons and everything.  From the top you could look over and see the mountains that border Lebanon.  Here, you are only ever a stones throw from the real hot spots.  Lebanon is as close as Hamilton is to Auckland&. I am not sure how I would feel if Hamilton was under attack& It makes me realize how isolated we are, maybe not a bad thing.

Day Fourteen

Rode a camel through the ruins of Palmyra an old Greek outpost.  My camel, Zenubia, was pregnant so I couldnt ride her for long.  Highlight of the day was being invited into the home of a woman I met on the street.  There were four generations in the same room.  I couldnt really communicate with them but it was wonderful to be there with them.  I gave them a peanut slab that I had with me went down a treat especially with the coffee they make very strong and black.

Day Fifteen

Have arrived in Allepo.  Got here in an old 1970s Merc driven by Omar& a man who seemed to like to take his hands off the wheel.  They have heaps of great old cars here that are as old as the hills and in mint condition it is so dry, rust isnt an issue.  Found some real characters in the market they know all about Australia and New Zealand and keep going on about sheep shaggers where men are men and sheep are nervous is how they described New Zealand.  Ducked into the Baron Hotel where Laurence stayed and had the obligatory glass of Arak.  Tomorrow is my last day&.

Day Sixteen

A quick shop in the markets and its home time&.  when I said I was coming to this part of the world, friends and family were nervous.  The reality is that it is solely due to media perception.  I have met such extreme kindness and generosity.  They know how they are perceived and still go out of their way to make you feel at home&. I would come back here, to this part of the world, in a moment.

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