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Source: Reuters
Floating, cocktail drink in hand, in the pool of a five-star
hotel in Cuba, Alexis basks in a holiday experience that for years
was out of reach for him in his own homeland.
The pastel-coloured hotel buildings, the well-ordered gardens, the
turquoise waters and the perpetually smiling waiters - all just 140
km east of his home in Havana.
So near, and yet for many years, so far away.
Until last year, Cuba's communist government prevented its citizens
from entering hotels reserved for hard currency-paying foreign
tourists.
It argued that tourism was a strategic revenue sector and that
widening access would create inequalities in a socialist society,
where most earn inconvertible Cuban pesos.
The tourist hotels, whose services, shops and restaurants are a
world away from the hardships and shortages experienced by most
Cubans, remained largely out of bounds for ordinary citizens.
This prohibition angered most Cubans, who considered it made
them second-class citizens in their own homeland.
But when President Raul Castro took over from his ailing older
brother Fidel Castro last year, one of his first acts was to end
the ban and open all facilities to Cubans.
The change was widely popular even though most islanders still
can not afford to stay at the tourist hotels.
"Let me tell you, this is great," said Alexis, an employee of a
state-run Havana hard currency store who declined to give his full
name, as his girlfriend returned from the bar with more mojito
cocktails - a tropical mix of lime juice, Cuban rum, and mint
leaves.
In the years immediately following the 1959 revolution, Cuban
workers were allowed into the island's premier resorts, yet the
need to earn much-needed hard currency led to the development again
of a more exclusive foreign tourism sector, especially over the
last 15 years.
But the global financial crisis has taken a big bite out of Cuba's
international tourism, so the Cuban travel industry, seeking to
boost occupation in half-empty hotels, has begun offering
reduced-price package deals to Cubans.
At $US70 a night for an all-inclusive hotel in Varadero, Cuba's
premier beach resort, prices are well below what foreigners pay,
but still out of reach for most Cubans struggling to make ends meet
on state salaries that average less than $US20 a month.
According to Tourism Minister Manuel Marrero, Cubans have accounted
for 10% of occupancy at Cuba's high-end hotels this summer.
The sweet life
The opening of a domestic market is giving more visibility to an
emerging class of wealthier Cubans who have hard currency in their
pockets and are eager to sport the coloured wristbands of the fancy
all-inclusive hotels.
The new Cuban internal tourists are professionals, technicians
working for foreign joint ventures and people receiving dollar
remittances from relatives living abroad.
"Before a foreigner would ask us about Varadero and we did not know
what to say," recalls Roberto Garcia, a 43-year-old engineer who
arrived from Havana with his family of six.
"Now, if you have the money, you can do it."
Without precise official figures on revenue from internal Cuban
tourism, it is difficult to gauge just how much of a boost this new
access is giving to the cash-strapped economy.
But to the extent that Cuban tourist spending increases the flow of
dollars to the island - by, for example, family members in Miami
financing a trip to Varadero for their Cuban relatives - it is
helpful, said Cuba expert Paolo Spadoni.
"Financing from abroad might also play quite an important role,"
said Spadoni, a post-doctoral fellow at Tulane University's Center
for Inter-American Policy and Research.
Some Cubans interviewed on a recent trip to Varadero said expenses
were paid by relatives visiting from the United States, a flow
which is up 20% since US President Barack Obama lifted travel
restrictions in April on Cuban-Americans visiting the island.
But Obama has made clear he will keep a 47-year-old US trade
embargo on Cuba in place for the moment to press Cuban leaders to
improve human rights and political freedoms.
Havana, while agreeing to talks on migration and other issues,
has said it will not make concessions for improved ties.
With the help of foreign investors, Cuba reluctantly developed its
tourism industry in the mid-1990s in response to the deep economic
crisis that followed the collapse of the Soviet Union, its chief
benefactor and ally for decades.
"All the money made here is for the people," proclaims a banner at
the entrance to Varadero, a 20 km peninsula of white-sand beaches
lined with big hotels.
This slogan reflects the long-used government argument that tourism
revenues are employed to benefit all of Cuba's people by helping to
pay for free health care and education.
Cuba has some 55,000 hotel rooms managed by the state, many in
association with foreign hotel heavyweights such as Sol Melia of
Spain, the French firm Accor or Jamaica's Sandals Resorts.
Attracted by its beaches and enduring revolutionary mystique, 2.3
million foreign tourists, mostly from US allies Canada and in
Europe, visited Cuba last year, which brought the island $US2.5
billion in revenues and made tourism one of Cuba's main sources of
hard currency.
President Raul Castro said in a speech earlier this month that the
number of international tourists is up, but revenues are down
compared to last year.
Both numbers are expected to grow if the US Congress approves a
proposed bill that would allow all Americans to freely visit Cuba,
currently prohibited by the US embargo against the island 145 km
from Key West, Florida.
But for now, Cuba is looking to Cubans to keep its hotels humming,
and people like Alexis are happy to help.
"This is just fantasy. Real life starts again on Monday when we get
back to Havana," he said between sips of a last mojito as the sun
set over Varadero.