Taste

India: Fact Sheet

India: Fact Sheet


Taste Takes Off Northern India - Recipes and further Information.

We've come to the vibrant, dramatic North of India.  To Rajasthan, land of desert kingdoms, fairytale palaces and India at its exotic and colourful best.  We discover how the stark arid landscapes of the desert state have led to extraordinary forms of survival: enormous rock-hewn fortress towns, vibrantly coloured fabric worn to protect the local people form the sun and a hot and spicy cuisine derived from meagre resources. But first we stop at the gateway to Rajasthan the Muslim heart of India, Old Delhi.  The Muslims arrived in the 16th century and made a lasting impact on the culture of India particularly its cuisine.  They used liberal amounts of cream and ghee in their dishes; they added yoghurt raisins and spices and introduced elaborate rice dishes like biryanis and pulaos.  Above all they increased the number of meat dishes in what a largely vegetarian Indian kitchen.  India's Muslim food is the style of Indian food that has travelled the world and is often mistaken for the definitive Indian cuisine.

Spice of Life
Located in a lane off Chandni Chowk is Delhi's bustling wholesale spice market.  Gadodia Market is a very atmospheric part of Old Delhi where things haven't changed much in the last hundred years.  Each day huge sacks of goods are brought here on long narrow barrows heaved by wiry labourers.  It's hectic in the morning when literally hundreds of barrow boys jostle for position.  Other goods for sale include giant jars of chutneys, pickles, nuts lentils, tea and soap.

Contact: Gadodia Spice Market
  Khari Baoli
  Old Delhi

Delhi Delicacies
For an authentic taste of Muslim cuisine a visit to Karim's in Old Delhi is not to be missed.  They've been serving patrons exceptionally good Muslim food for almost a century now.  The current owners are 4th generation of the original founder Haji Karimudden who opened Karims back in 1913.  However the family cooking tradition goes back much further.  The family ancestors worked in the kitchens of the last Mughal Emperor who was dethroned in 1857 and the art of cooking royal food was handed down.  The name Karim's is one of the 99 names of Allah which is apparently why the restaurant is still going strong 100 years on. 

Contact: Karims Restaurant
Jama Masjid
Old Delhi
Tel: 91 11 2326 4981
http://www.karimhoteldelhi.com/press.html

Oasis in the Desert
The fort of Deogarh (pron: dev-gar) was built in 1670 as a family residence for one of the Maharaja of Udaipur's 16 fuedal barons.  Straight away the ruling family interacted with the local village, hosting many festivities and feasts which were performed within the fort precincts.  In recent times the fort was restored and transformed into a boutique hotel by the current branch of the original ruling family.  However, many of the old traditions are still practiced and the fort sponsors the local village and in return the villagers provide produce for the hotel.  Guests can tour the village and take part in the preparation of traditional Rajasthani foods, such as paneer, ghee, rotis and the most cherished regional specialty Daal served with Bati and Churma. 

Daal, Bati and Churma
In Rajasthan daal is traditionally urad lentils boiled in water then cooked with garam masala, red chillies, cumin seeds, salt, oil and fresh coriander.  Bati are baked balls of wholemeal flour with cinnamon and nutmeg.  The balls are then broken up, soaked in ghee and roasted in a fire or fried in ghee until golden brown.  Churma is made from gram flour and sugar which is deep fried in ghee.

Contact: Deogarh Mahal
  District Rajsamand 313331
  Rajasthan
  India
  Tel: +91 2904 252777
  Email: info@deogarhmahal.com
   www.deogarhmahal.com

PETA COOKS PAKORAS WITH FRESH MINT CHUTNEY

For the Pakoras
Chick pea flour
Red chilli,
Salt
Carom seeds,
Aniseed
Baking soda,
Fenugreek leaves
Coriander,
Cumin seeds (roasted and ground)
Amchur (dry mango powder)

Fillings
Sliced, eggplant, onion, potato, banana.

Mix all ingredients together and stir in a little water until you achieve a nice thick consistency and leave to rest.  Dip each filling into the batter and deep fry until golden brown.

For the Mint Chutney
Fresh mint
Cumin
Salt
Chilli
Water
Dry mango powder

Place in all ingredients in a food processor and blend.

Udaipur
Our final stop is Udaipur which is considered the most picturesque of all the cities in Rajasthan if not India.  Its construction around two man made lakes; the larger being Lake Pichola, means Udaipur is often referred to Venice of the East.  The city is jumble of tangled streets full of superbly crafted fairytale palaces, temples and havelies (traditional ornately decorated residences).

The Vasudev Dudh Bhandar Milk Shop
Owner: Ravi Khaturia

On a corner in a busy street in Udaipur is a milk shop run by Ravi Khaturia.  Ravi's shop has been operating for over 50 years.  Each day begins at around 7.00am with a delivery of around 200 litres of milk from the local villages.  Ravi has about 10 workers who busy themselves for the rest of the day making Paneer (Indian cottage cheese), milk based sweets and lassis those delicious Indian yoghurt drinks.  This milk shop is located 'in the shadow Surajpoles main temple in Udaipur. 

Udaipur's City Palace
Towering above Lake Pichola is the imposing City Palace complex.  The City Palace is actually a collection of buildings and palaces built by various Maharajas but it still manages to retain a look of uniformity.  Our destination within the Palace complex is the magnificent Shiv Niwas Palace.  The Shiv Niwas is home to the 76th Maharaja of Udaipur whose family came to power in 1326.  The Maharaja lives in one wing of the Palace and the remainder he converted into one of India's most luxurious palace hotels. 

In the royal kitchens of Rajasthan, preparation of food was raised to the level of an art form.  Hundreds of cooks worked in the stately palaces and kept their recipes a closely guarded secret.  It became a matter of great prestige to serve unusual dishes to guests and the royal cooks were urged to experiment.  At the Shiv Niwas the chefs strive to maintain the old culinary traditions and meal here is considered one of Rajasthan's ultimate dining experiences.

SHAHI GOVIND GHATTA

200gms gram flour
200mls whipped yoghurt
2tbsp clarified butter
1/4 tsp crushed coriander seeds
1/4 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp crushed root ginger
1 clove garlic crushed
1/4 tsp garam masala powder
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp coriander powder
Pinch of turmeric
2 tbsp chopped cashew nuts
1 tbsp raisins
Pinch of cumin seeds
2 tbsp green coriander chopped for garnish.
Oil for frying
Salt to taste

Mix sifted gram flour with a little salt, crushed coriander seeds, fennel seeds, half of the powdered spices and then add water to make stiff dough.  Divide the dough into twelve equal portions.  Roll each portion into a ball shape, then flatten slightly and put some raisins and cashew nuts in the centre.  Poach these gram patties in boiling water until light.  Remove from the water, once cooled deep fry them until they're golden brown.  

Heat the clarified butter in a pan, crackle cumin seeds, add the ginger and garlic until slightly brown.  Meanwhile mix remaining ingredients except the coriander into the yoghurt and whip well.  Add the yoghurt mixture to the prepared tempering of clarified butter and cook until the fat surfaces slightly on top of the curry.  Add the deep fried patties (ghatta) to the curry and cook until thoroughly heated through.  Garnish with coriander.

SAFED MAAS

200gms mutton or lamb
2 tbsp yoghurt
2 tbsp of cashew and almond paste
2tbsp clarified butter
1 inch piece of cinnamon stick
1/4 tsp cumin seeds
1 bay leaf
4 tbsp boiled onion paste
1 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp minced ginger
500mls milk
1 tbsp cream
2 tbsp green coriander
1 onion julienned
Chilli seed powder (optional)

In a pot mix 500mls of water with 400 mls of milk, bring to the boil then simmer for about 1 ý hours.  Drain the liquid and keep the meat warm.  Heat the clarified butter in a pan and crackle cinnamon, cumin seeds bay leaf and cardamom.  Add onion paste, ginger, garlic and salt.  Sauté for a few minutes before returning the meat to the pan.  Add remaining milk, cashew-almond paste, yoghurt and cream (and chillie powder if required) then cook until meat is completely cooked through.  Garnish with coriander.

Additional Information
Travel specialists Adventure World assisted the 'Taste' team with their India arrangements.  Adventure World is a niche travel company with an in depth knowledge of less traditional tourist destinations.  For more information about their products and tours contact Adventure World at:
 Contact: Adventure World
   PO Box 74008 Market Road
   Auckland
   Tel: +64 9 524 5118 or 0800 ADVENTURE (0800 238 3622)
   Email: discover@adventureworld.co.nz
   Website: adventureworld.co.nz


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