Ep 4 - Wild Pigs
Bacon wrapped wild pork tenderloin
1kg Wild pork tender
150gm Streaky bacon (sliced about 2mm thick & 22cm long)
250gm Wild pork mousse (see recipe)
2 Medium sized lemons (grated zest only)
4tbsp Chopped fresh thyme
1tbsp Flaky sea salt
1/2tsp Cracked white pepper
- Use a sharp knife to trim off the first 3 cm of the thin
end of the tender loins and about the same off the thick end then
carefully remove the silver skin and excess fat.
- Set all of the trim aside to make your mousse later, you should have about 750 gm of tender loin and about 250 gm of trim.
- Lay the chilled bacon slices side by side on a 30 cm wide by 44 cm long piece of baking paper.
- Spread the mousse over the full width and 3/4 of the length of the bacon sheet then evenly season with the salt, pepper, thyme and lemon zest.
- Evenly divide the tender loin across the width of the bacon sheet, season the meat with a little more sea salt then roll firmly to form a large sausage like cylinder.
- Wrap the cylinder in plastic wrap and twist until tight then tie off the ends and allow it to set for at least 2-4 hours. I usually let mine set over night.
- Once the wild pork has set, unwrap it and use a sharp knife to cut it into 6 even portions. Now you need to vacuum pack each portion individually and set them aside in the fridge until they are needed. The wild pork tender loin rolls will keep for up to 4 -5 days if they are vacuum packed and refrigerated. If you do not have access to a vacuum packer just wrap them in plastic wrap and cook them within 2-3 days.
Wild Pork Mousse
250gm Wild pork trimmings
pinch Flaky sea salt
pinch Cracked white pepper
- Blend the wild pork trim for about 10 seconds in a food
processor then add the cream and the seasonings while the blender
is still running.
- Blend for about a further 30 seconds until the mix is smooth.
- Use a spatula to remove the mousse from the blender bowl and pass it through a sieve with a pastry card.
- Remove the 250 gm required for the rolled tender loin and use the remaining 150 gm to make the wild pork farce for the wild pork tortellini.
Wild Pork Farce
150gm Wild pork mousse
1/2 Medium sized orange (grated zest only)
2tbsp Sliced chives
2tbsp Chopped toasted walnuts
- Fold all of the above ingredients together with a rubber
spatula, & set the farce aside.
- It is best used the same day but it will store in the fridge for up to two days if it is covered with baking paper in an air tight container.
- The farce will change colour slightly on the surface but will still be fine to use.
Wild Boar Cigar
150gm Wild boar ragut (see recipe)
75gm Filo pastry (3x sheets stacked & cut into 13cm x 13cm squares per portion)
100gm Butter (melted)
- Put the wild pork ragut into a solid bottomed sauce pan,
gently bring it to a simmer and cook it until most of the liquid
- Spread the ragut onto a small tray and cool it down in the fridge.
- Lay all 6 filo squares side by side and brush them generously with the melted butter.
- Evenly divide the boar six ways and place a cigar shaped portion onto the centre of each pastry square then roll them up and twist the ends.
- Brush them with butter and store in the fridge for up to a week.
6 Medium sized
shallots (skin on)
6 Sprigs of thyme
2 Garlic cloves (skin on)
Pinch Flaky sea salt
2tbsp Olive oil
1/8tsp Cracked white pepper
- Toss all of the ingredients together and wrap them into a
bundle using foil.
- Bake at 180C for about 45 minutes or until the shallots are tender, then allow them to cool, peel them and set them aside.
- This can be done up to two days in advance if you store them in the fridge in an air tight container.
200gm Pasta flour
100gm Fine semolina (if not available high gluten flour will do)
6 Egg yolks
1 Whole egg
- Mix the flour and semolina on a clean surface and make a
well in the center.
- Add the eggs and mix them with a fork bringing the flour to the middle until you have formed enough of a dough to mix it by hand.
- Knead it well until you have formed a smooth elastic dough. This should take about 5 minutes of hard labour.
- Remember flour and eggs can change from batch to batch so if the dough is too sticky add more flour or if it is too dry add a little of the egg whites.
- Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and rest it in the fridge for 30 minutes.
- Cut the dough into 2 pieces and work with only 1 at a time, keep the other half covered under a damp cloth.
- Your unused pasta will stay fresh in the fridge for about half a day, then you can roll it into ribbons eg pappardelle or tagliatelle. Dry it by hanging it over a coat hanger for a couple of days in a dry place until you can crumble it in your hand, then you can store it in an air tight container for up to two months.
Wild Pork Tortellini
- Divide the wild pork farce into 12 evenly sized balls and
set them aside.
- Flatten the pasta with a rolling pin until it is thin enough to put through the thickest setting of the pasta machine and roll it through twice, then fold it in half and repeat a couple of times until the pasta is as wide as the width of the machine and very smooth.
- Dust the pasta on both sides with a little fine semolina and run it through the settings one by one until you have reached the thinnest one.
- Dust the work surface with a little more semolina and carefully lay the very thin pasta sheet down being sure not to fold the ends as they may stick together.
- Use a 10 cm diameter round cookie cutter to cut out 12 circles of pasta then very lightly spray them with a mist of water using a clean spray bottle.
- Place a wild pork ball onto the centre of each pasta round then individually fold them in half to form the shape of a moon making sure to press the pasta around the ball removing all of the air then seal the edges between fore finger and thumb.
- Now the tricky part, twist the two pointed corners around your thumb and bring them together to meet at the center of the ball and press the two ends together with fore finger and thumb, they should be able to stand by themselves and look a little like a round wonton.
- Place your beautiful looking tortellini on a shallow bed of semolina and dust a little more on top and put them into the fridge until you need them.
- This dish only requires one tortellini per portion so you can store the extras in the fridge for up to a day or freeze them for up to a month
Granny smith apple sauce
Granny smith apples (peeled, cut into 1/4, cored)
70gm Caster sugar
375ml Dry white wine
2 Black pepper corns
1 Cinnamon small quills
2tbsp Brown butter (infused with a pinch of rosemary)
- Melt the sugar in the wine over a gentle heat.
- Stud 1 of the apple pieces with the cloves and pepper corns then add the apples and cinnamon to the wine and cover with a round of baking paper.
- Cook over a high heat until the wine has evaporated and the apples are very tender and opaque, remove the spices. (Be careful not to let the apples caramelize at all)
- Puree the apples in a blender with the brown butter until it is pale and smooth and set it aside.
This recipe can be made two days in advance if it is stored in an air tight container in the fridge.
NB heat a small sauce pan to a medium high heat and add the butter, when it begins to foam and change to a light brown colour add the rosemary and remove it from the heat. Pass the brown butter through a sieve and leave it at room temperature until it is ready to be added to the apple sauce.
Fruit Nuts & Root Vegetables
18 Large seedless
18 Baby carrots
2 Granny smith apples
2 Ripe pears
2 Fennel bulbs
12 Roasted chestnuts (canned from a specialty store)
18 Sprigs of wild water cress
1 Shallot (peeled and diced very finely)
2tbsp Chives (sliced very finely)
- Firstly you need to peel the grapes using a small tea
spoon by cutting off a thin slice from the bottom of each grape and
carefully running the tip of the spoon in between the skin and the
flesh with the pad of your thumb as a guide. They can be stored
under a damp paper towel until needed.
- Next the apples and pears need to be peeled, cut into 1/8's, and just trimmed around the edges with a small sharp knife. The same knife can be used to remove the core. Just a little hint; have a container of ice water with lemon juice in it to hold the apple and pears in as you work to prevent them from turning brown. They should also be stored in the acidulated ice water until you are ready to cook them.
- The fennel can also be cut into 1/8's and trimmed around the edges then stored in acidulated iced water.
- Trim the green leaf of the baby carrots to about 2cm long, peel them and clean around the green stalk with the point of a knife. Both the fennel and the baby carrots now need to be cooked for about 5 minutes in boiling salted water until they are just tender, and then quickly cooled in iced water. Dry them off and store them with the grapes under a damp paper towel.
- The chestnuts are ready to use so just keep them handy.
Wild Boar Ragut
2.5kg Wild boar
2 cups Prosecco or any sparkling white wine that has a hint of sweetness
1cup Tomato fondue (see recipe)
2 Large fennel bulb
2 Large yellow onions
1/2 head Garlic (split cross ways)
1/2tbsp Fennel seeds (lightly toasted)
1/2tbsp Coriander seeds (lightly toasted)
1/2tbsp White pepper corns
2tbsp Flakey sea salt
- Dry the blood off the necks and season them well with the
flakey sea salt then caramelize them to a dark golden colour and
place them in a large roasting pan.
- Caramelize the vegetables, add the spices, the tomato fondue and the Prosecco then bring it all to the boil, and pour it over the boar meat.
- The Boar should be 3/4 covered with liquid, if it isn't just top the roasting pan up with some water or chicken stock.
- Cover the roasting pan with foil and braise at 150C until the meat is very tender, this will take approximately 4-5 hours
- When the meat is very tender carefully separate it from the braising liquor, break it up into bite sized chunks and set them aside.
- Puree the vegetables and liquids in a blender until it is a smooth silky sauce then fold the meat back into the liquids, adjust the seasoning if you think it needs some more.
So now we can take a 150 gm of the Wild Boar Neck Ragut to use
as a filling for our filo cigars.
You can serve this recipe with fresh pasta ribbons, pecorino cheese and some chopped chives, and it can also be made a couple of days in advance.
Shallots (peeled & sliced thin)
4 cloves Garlic (peeled & sliced thin)
1/2 bunch Basil stalks
1 cup Olive oil
1kg Whole peeled tomatoes
Large pinch Flakey sea salt
1/4tsp Freshly cracked white pepper
- Bring the oil to a moderate heat then sizzle the basil in
the oil until it becomes transparent, then remove and discard
- Gently cook the shallots and garlic in the basil scented oil until they become tender then add the salt and pepper and then the tomatoes.
- Rinse the cans with about a cup of water and add it to the sauce.
- Cook the sauce gently for about an hour then season with a pinch of sugar and some more salt if it needs it.
- Puree the sauce in a blender then pass it through a fine sieve.
This sauce can be made a few days in advance if you store it in the fridge in an air tight container. This recipe can also be used as a soup or a pasta sauce.
2.5kg Chicken bones (ask your local butcher)
2 Medium sized carrots (peeled, cut medium dice)
2 Small onions (peeled, sliced 5mm thick)
1/2 Medium sized leek (washed, cut medium sized chop, white with a little green)
1 stick Celery (cut medium sized chop)
4 cloves Garlic (skin on & crushed)
4 Ripe tomatoes (rough chop)
Parsley stalks & 2 bay leaves
2 cups Madeira port
- Pre heat your oven to 250C.
- Chop the chicken bones up into thumb sized pieces and place them on an oiled roasting tray, the tray should be large enough so that the bones don't overlap.
- Roast the bones for about 45 minutes then turn them over and roast them for a further 45 minutes until they are dark golden in colour then add them to a 10 lt pot.
- Deglaze by adding 2 cups of water to the roasting tray and scraping all of the brown yummy bits up and adding them to the pot, then add about double the volume of water to bones to the pot and bring it to a simmer.
- Be sure to skim the impurities from the surface of the stock with a ladle to keep the flavor clean and the stock clear. Once the stock has come to a simmer and it has been skimmed, add the tomatoes, herbs and any mushroom trim that you may have lying around.
- Continue to simmer the stock for 3 hours skimming regularly, then coat the vegetables in a little canola oil and roast them at 180C for about 45 minutes turning them as required until they are deep golden brown in colour, then deglaze the pan as per the chicken bones and add it all to the stock.
- Cook the stock for a further 1 hour to complete the extraction of flavor from the bones. If at any point the stock drops below the level of the bones just top it up with more cold water.
- Once the stock has cooked for 5 hours strain it by ladling the stock through a fine sieve twice and then put it back on the heat to reduce in a smaller appropriately sized sauce pan. Keep simmering the stock and skimming until it reduces by half, then you can begin reducing the Madeira in a separate pot. Reduce the Madeira to about 150 mls and add it to the stock. At this point the jus will be getting close to being finished, once it has reduced to about 1 lt it should be at a consistency where it just coats a spoon, so now you can add a couple of sprigs of thyme and some cracked pepper, rest it for half an hour then strain it for the last time and set it aside. This process can be done over two days, the extraction on day 1 and the reduction on day 2.
- Pre heat your oven to 220C
- Fill a medium sized sauce pan with cold water, add enough flaky sea salt until you can just taste it and a splash of olive oil. Bring it to the boil ready for when you need to cook the tortellini.
- You will also need a splash of neutral oil like canola or grape seed, a couple of cloves of garlic lightly crushed with the skin on, a couple of sprigs of thyme and about 150 gm of unsalted butter.
- I normally vacuum pack my bacon wrapped wild pork tender loin and cook it sous vide, in a water bath at 64.5C for 20 minutes then caramelize it in a hot frying pan to finish.
- The wild pork tender loin: If you don't have access to all the fancy cheffy equipment you can use a solid bottomed oven proof frying pan big enough to easily fit all 6 portions in, bring it to a medium high heat, add a couple of tbsp of oil then caramelize all of the sides of each piece. If it is getting a little difficult to manage just turn the heat down a touch and keep turning the pork until they are nice and golden all the way round. Once they look beautiful and golden flip them onto the flat side and place the pan into the oven. After about 6-8 minutes flip them onto the other flat side and keep cooking for a further 8 or so minutes depending on how far through you want them to be cooked. It should take about 12-15 minutes to be cooked beautifully pink. Once it is done in the oven put the pan back on the element, flip the wild pork back onto the bacon side, add a couple of big tbsp's of butter, the garlic and thyme and allow the heat to foam the butter as it did for the brown butter in the apple sauce recipe. Spoon this wonderfully scented foam over the pork portions for a minute then remove them from the heat to rest for about 5 minutes. They will feel quite soft but that's ok they will be just fine.
- The filo cigars: Place a piece of baking paper onto a small oven proof tray, evenly space the cigars on the paper and put them into the oven when you flip the wild pork onto the second flat side. The cigars will take about 10 minutes to become golden and crispy.
- The roasted fruit, nuts and root vegetables: Use at least a 26 cm diameter deep oven proof frying pan to cook this part of the dish. As soon as the filo cigars go into the oven heat the pan medium high and add a couple of tbsp of oil. Dry off the apple and pears and allow them to lightly caramelize before adding the fennel and baby carrots, allow them to caramelize also then add the roasted shallots and chestnuts, season lightly with flaky sea salt and cracked white pepper then place the pan in the oven to roast for about 4-5 minutes. Now when you pull the pan out of the oven, add about 200 ml of the Madeira jus and bring it to the boil, add the remaining 100 or so gm of butter and let it simmer until the sauce becomes shiny and glazes all of the ingredients in the pan then add the grapes, chopped shallots and the chives. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if you think it needs some more.
- The tortellini: When the roasted fruit, nuts and root vegetables come out of the oven drop the tortellini into the simmering water and cook for 4 minutes until the pasta is tender, then add the tortellini to the fruit, nuts and vegetables pan and fold them through the sauce.
- Time to plate: At this point the bacon wrapped wild pork will be rested, the filo cigars cooked and we are ready to evenly divide the tortellini, glazed goodies and sauce between 6 main sized dinner bowels. Slice each wild pork roll into 3 and place them on the plate, then add the filo cigars, a spoon of cold apple sauce and finish with the wild water cress.