Nelson's Notes from New Zealand
Nelson and a furry friend from the Wellington SPCA
Nelson and Sarah with a fine set of wheels, outside the WOW museum.
Nelson and Sarah hitch a ride in Thingee's Shaguar.
There's no doubt that one of the perks of my job as an international journalist is the opportunity to occasionally visit my colleagues for location stories. While these may usually play out for the humor of having an American "fish out of water," they're always fun and fascinating tourist times and a chance to pass on some destination recommendations to friends all around the globe!
Wellington was recently selected as one of the Top 5 Destination Cities in the world and I had the chance to verify it, personally. I travelled there courtesy of Air New Zealand to co-host "Good Morning" show and from the first indulgences at the Koru Lounge at LAX to the impeccable service and comfy "Pod" bed for the overnight flight, getting to the other side of the world was no big deal; especially after a hearty breakfast served with REAL utensils & china followed by emerging onto the tarmac to bask in Springtime weather.
National pride is everywhere in New Zealand... as it should be. Windy Wellington, the capital, is a tiny city with more restaurants and cafes per capita than anywhere else in the world. Its hub is the scenic harbor, clean enough for swimming and more colorful than a picture postcard. The architecture is a cunning mixture of old and new, with art abounding and a first-rate museum as its stunning centerpiece (Ever wonder where the world's largest squid is housed? Wonder no more!) Stay at the Museum Hotel across the street - comfortable accommodations with dramatic, original artwork adorning the walls, and you're in a prime location for all the best local activities. Overlook the water and people-watch while you indulge in an extravagant High Tea served by their highly trained and attentive staff. Do not miss the chance to dine in their restaurant, Hippopotamus.
If you want a healthy snack, check out the colorful cascade of produce offered on Sundays - locally grown fruits and vegetables by the very vendors who sell them. You might just find a few new taste sensations as well as old favorites that I got lost in translation (ie. red pepper = capsicum. eggplant = aubergine, etc). One of the most charming nearby eateries is Zibibbo, serving interesting, inspired dishes for the last decade and always keeping au currant. Native delicacies blend perfectly with traditional fare and the prices are right, too.
It didn't take long for me to liken Wellington to its obvious "sister cities," San Francisco and Manhattan. But if you're a seasoned traveler, you may also recognize some chic dashes of Melbourne, Australia or Dublin, Ireland. To enjoy a promenade or a run, there is a long loop around the harbor creating a well maintained, breathtaking course. I marvelled at how immaculate and tame even the seagulls managed to be amidst their metropolitan environs. Enjoy a beer or espresso outside the opera house and see what I mean.
The city's surrounding landscape's "storybook" appeal was not lost on their favorite son, filmmaker Peter Jackson, who shot his LORD OF THE RINGS trilogy there. There's nationwide excitement for his upcoming HOBBIT series, which will continue to bring recognition and revenue to the area. I had a private tour of his Park Road post-production facilities which have revitalized the suburbs and they are technically and architecturally stunning. Hollywood would (and should) be jealous.
Go for drinks at the Yacht Club or upstairs at Martin Bosley's award-winning eponymous restaurant (voted Best in Wellington) and tell Kate the Maitre D' that I sent you! You will be treated to her expertise and pampering, along with the stunning views accompanying your beverages (and creative, delicious cuisine if you care to indulge). The seafood in NZ is among the most delicious and versatile in the world...not to be missed. In fact, it's the ONLY place I'll eat mussels. Even "pub grub" in Welly is tempting. The Four Kings on Courtenay Place offers drinks specials and "Trivia Night" is a fun way to end your day or start your evening. Clue: "Thingee" was a beloved Kiwi puppet character who famously lost an eyeball on live TV. Speaking of TV, I was impressed with how Maori dialect and expressions are sprinkled into the programming. It's a very cool melding of cultures we might want to emulate in the States for our own bilingual/cultural society.
Like most urban places, the diversity of the population is reflected in its food. When you're ready to skip the haute cuisine, it's easy to find familiar faves - fast food, Thai, sushi and pizza (Good luck finding Mexican, though). Combine all that Wellington has to offer with the excitement of its unpredictable but usually agreeable weather and you might just want to make it your home base while in New Zealand. That worked well for me as I working each weekday from GOOD MORNING's cavernous Avalon studios. It was stimulating to mix it up with my cohosts on the couch as well as participate in cooking & crafts segments, panel discussions, celebrity interviews - even demonstrate pet care, fitness routines and musical performance. Very Ellen DeGeneres!
Waiting to be explored you have upscale shopping boutiques, bungee jumping, kayaking, abundant pristine beaches, scuba & snorkeling, nightclubs, concerts and plays. And that's just this one city! I had a whole other mini-adventure on the South Island of NZ, just because of the happenstance of being named "Nelson."
A quick half hour "puddle jump" flight from Wellington had me in the southern island city of Nelson, named for Lord Admiral Horatio Nelson, as evidenced by the main thoroughfare: Trafalgar Street. It might be an unusual destination for a Western visitor, since it's a tiny dot on the map known primarily for the fact that it boasts the most sunny days of anywhere else in the world. I've never felt so lucky about my name! (Someone quipped I should be grateful my parents didn't call me "Hamilton." Having never been there, I reserve judgement.) Small town-meets-Tropical Paradise was evident from the airplane and, upon touchdown, I had to don sunglasses we strolled across the tarmac to retrieve my bag. (Clearing Customs and Baggage Claim coming in from the US is an exercise in patience, but flying around within NZ is quick and easy.)
Abel Tasman, who I'm told discovered the country many years before the oft-credited Captain Cook, is immportalized in sculpture overlooking a wide expanse of clear turquoise ocean lapping against a golden beach. The scenic nature trail named for him is also a major attraction for hiking and "walkabout" enthusiasts. Alas, I hadn't the luxury of time - I was being whisked off in an Excalibur limousine that looked like it had just been hauled out of Cruella DeVille's garage. It roared up to the WOW Museum of Wearable Art and Classic Cars Museum. I'm not much into fashion, although the exhibit was interesting, but it was impossible not to be dazzled by the automobiles. Frankly, our own Petersen Auto Museum in LA could learn a lesson or two from their immaculate, wide ranging collection, cleverly displayed. From the Model T to today's flashiest roadsters, theirs is a spectacle to behold.
After a strong, hot java (NZ coffee puts Starbucks to shame), I was pumped up for the next stop: our hotel, the Grand Mercure Monaco, a quaint rose covered "village" replicating Ye Olde English Towne, complete with a duck pond! A quick shave later and it was the piece de la resistance: dinner at the Seifried Winery. Austrian Herman married his "Sweet Agnes" and started their vineyard in the gorgeous region known as Richmond. I met their children, all of whom are in the family business, and was treated to a feast of food and wine as abundant and appetizing as any I've ever tasted. My compliments to their talented, charismatic chef, Horst. I left feeling full and floaty... and like family. A visit to the Seifrieds will always be on my NZ itinerary and it should certainly be on yours!
Then there was the fun of a Saturday in Nelson: A pottery lesson at Alchemy Arts Centre (where I spun a cup that only a mother could love) and a trip to the excellent outdoor market where there are stalls of everything from soaps and sausages to handcrafted tea towels and toys. I picked up the most glorious Canterbury flowers at a bargain price and even met the Mayor, Aldo Miccio, the newly elected sauve young businessman. Lunch at The Boat Shed was not only a taste sensation (grilled Prawns) but afforded me yet another magnificent ocean view - the kind you might only see stranded on a remote Fijian island!
Then it was time to jet back to Auckland and wrap up my action-filled, wine-soaked week. I don't think you can imagine my surprise when I was invited to join the pilots in the cockpit for the 90 minute flight north to Auckland (that would NEVER happen in the USA). One last amazing view of both highlands from 26,000 feet - high above the panoply of snow-capped mountain, turquoise seas and green hillsides. It was the ultimate geography and history lesson, with a dash of aviation thrown in. Oh, yeah -my job has its perks!
And yes, I was one of the thousands of travelers straneded at Auckland airport when their runways lights lost power. It was a 24 hour exercise in Patience (which I remind myself is defined as "the good natured acceptance of unexpected delay"), but the Air NZ staff and crew bent over backwards to make the inconvenience as painless as possible. Champions, all of them!
