by Holly Knill
When Kate Sylvester was 15 years old she announced her intention to be a fashion designer at her school's careers evening.
She was told New Zealand didn't have any designers, but that she could consider a career as a sample machinist.
Fifteen years later, opening the L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week 2003 Sylvester says there are "now hundreds, possibly thousands of designers in New Zealand and not a sample machinist to be found".
This tale tells two stories. The first is one we all know: New Zealand's designers are innovative, creative and producing some outstanding garments and this is why the third L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week is attracting return and increasing numbers of new sponsors.
"There has been incredible growth in international awareness of the fact that New Zealand fashion not only exists but has a very distinct allure. Our profile is on the rise and our task is to make the most of it," says Fashion Week's managing director Pieter Stewart.
Both previous years have resulted in new export business for the designers that participated, contributed to educating new markets about our talent, and up-skilled many designers in the business of fashion. It's no surprise that New Zealand Trade and Enterprise (NZTE) continues being L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week's strategic partner.
The second tale Sylvester's story tells is really one of national pride. Increasing globalisation often means even the most iconic of national products the world over can be manufactured in third world countries for a fraction of the cost. This is where it appears our designers have stood firm behind the 'NZ made' mantra, instead of falling victim to the all to ubiquitous 'Made in China' label, despite the shortage of skilled employees such as the sample machinists Sylvester mentioned.
One of New Zealand's leading fashion businessman, Paul Blomfield, compiled a report last year for Industry New Zealand on The Designer Fashion Industry in New Zealand which surveyed a group of 119 New Zealand designer fashion businesses. To their credit, it found only 14% of respondents produced garments offshore but most designers agreed that the lack of quality short-run production capability is restricting growth of the industry.
Fashion educators report that few students consider other career options in the clothing industry than designing with the possible exception of sales representative or fashion retail shop manager.
Many of those seeking employment in the fashion industry have little interest in sewing skills themselves, nor the training necessary to run a growing business. Established businesses are bridging the knowledge gap with mentoring programmes such as the Dunedin Incubator but long term, tertiary fashion courses may need to offer a more balanced approach to their training.
For 2003, Stewart has commissioned an economic impact report to provide the industry and their sponsors with an accurate picture of what fashion week has done for the country.
Feedback from the designers who have been involved, show continued sales growth with anecdotal reports of figures increasing by up to 300% and record sales figures at retail fashion outlets in Auckland and around the country.
This is further supported by a phone survey after L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week 2002, which put post-show fashion sales at around $10 million.
It sounds like there could be many sample machinist jobs on offer in the not so distant future.
