New Zealand's fashion industry is more than just frocks - it is fast becoming a substantial export industry thanks to the efforts of local designers.
More than 80 overseas buyers are in Auckland and were at the first day of L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week which began Monday morning with Style Pasifika.
The show featured three Pacific-influenced labels, including Overstayer, designed by hip hop artist King Kapisi who also provided the live music for his models.
One of the major shows on Monday was from New Zealand icon label Zambesi, which showed in Auckland's Old Chief Post Office building.
The collection was entitled 'Wild at Heart' and incoroporated elements of biker/rock chic - mixing sequins and leather, satin, wool and denim.
There are around 50 designers taking part in the trade shows with the aim of attracting buyers and media exposure.
Two years ago, the annual export value of New Zealand designer fashion was put at $40 million, but Glen Candy of New Zealand Trade and Enterprise says that figure is now considered out of date.
"We have reason to believe that substantially undervalues what high fashion is currently doing perhaps by 50% - it may be that high end fashion is generating up to $80 million."
In terms of measuring its street cred, designer fashion is moving up in the world.
According to NZ Trade and Enterprise, it outstrips music exports which generates between $5-20 million and is just behind the thoroughbred horse industry at $100 million. However it is still well behind marine exports at $300 million.
A phone survey after L'oreal New Zealand Fashion Week 2002 put post show fashion sales at around $10 million.
Designer Doris de Pont acknowledges the importance of new overseas contracts as a result of last year's show - but says it goes beyond that.
"I don't think I could afford the editorial that I got out of last year's Fashion Week."
Designer Nick Blanchet, of the label Blanchet, has also seen material gains from 2002's efforts.
"The show was really successful, wholesale sales grew 50%."
But some have fallen from high - fledgling label Gubb and Mackie has shut up shop in central Auckland after last year staging an elaborate ball at Government House to showcase its collection.
Its founder says the store wasn't pulling its weight, and the label's future is uncertain.
Runway shows aren't cheap - industry insiders say off site shows can suck up $80,000.
Eula Marie Smith, a buyer for US department store Nordstroms, says they look at Fashion Week as a chance to trial some of the labels.
"We do test lines, maybe anywhere from $20,000 to $100,000 for the season... And if it checks, then next time we come back and buy more."
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